Bacalao: Salted Cod Fish

     I saw something incredibly interesting in the grocery store this week: salted cod, known as Bacalao here in Mexico and many other places across the world.  It was labeled “Noruego” which means Norwegian, and could be bought whole (entero), or in pieces already packaged and weighed.  If you have lived in Mexico for any amount of time, you are probably familiar with Bacalao a la Vizcaína as a very traditional dish served on Christmas Eve (Noche Buena).  This tradition started with Spanish settlers, named after Vizcaya (or “Biscay” in English), a province in Spain.  But what many people don’t realize is that salted cod is also an extremely traditional American dish, which has many culinary possibilities!

Bacalao in Mexican Grocery Store

Preserved foods were a necessity to the early settlers of the New World.  Not only was their journey long and arduous, negating their ability to bring fresh foods from their homeland, but the winters, particularly in present-day Canada and New England, prohibited them from being able to produce much for many months out of the year.  Some of the first settlers to the New World were the Vikings, and their fondness for using salt to preserve fish (as early as 975 A.D.) started a culinary legacy that lasted until the European settlements of the late 16^th and early 17^th centuries and beyond.  These settlers spent their summers preserving and storing food for the winter, so foods like salt pork, cod, and corned beef as well as preserved fruits and vegetables became staples of the colonial diet.

Today, salted cod is still a traditional food in many countries and can also be readily found in the United States. However, I believe (since I once felt this way) that it is widely misunderstood in the States.  Before I went to culinary school, I could not understand why on earth someone would want to eat something that was so salty.  ButI learned quickly that the use of salt was just a preservation method, and you soak all of the salt away before using the fish.  I also was introduced to an incredibly delicious recipe using salt cod, and I was hooked for life.  I hope you are, too!  Here are two recipes, one American and one Mexican, so that you can take advantage of this incredibly unique ingredient.

Old Fashioned Salt Cod Cakes with Bacon, Remoulade Sauce and Coleslaw

This recipe is delicious accompanied by french fries. Check out my favorite method here.
Serves 4, yielding two cod cakes per person 

Photo by Daniel Castro

Salt Cod Cakes:

·        ¾ lb (about .35 kg) salt cod filets (bacalao)

·        Water (as needed)

·        3 C milk

·        1 lb (about .5 kg) potatoes, peeled

·        ½ oz (1 Tbsp) whole butter

·        ¼ lb minced onions

·        2 cloves garlic

·        1 egg, lightly beaten

·        2 tsp prepared brown mustard

·        2 tsp Worcestershire Sauce (labeled “salsa inglesa” in Mexico)

·        ½ tsp Tabasco Sauce or other hot sauce

·        2 Tbsp fresh, flat-leaf parsley, chopped

·        Kosher Salt and Freshly Ground Black Pepper, to taste

·        1-2 lb sliced bacon

·        3¼ oz (scant 1 C) dried bread crumbs

·        3-4 C vegetable oil for pan-frying

·        1 tsp Old Bay Seasoning (can substitute crab boil or pickling spice, or make your own using the recipe below)

·        toothpicks
 

1.      Rinse the salt cod in several changes of water.  Soak the salt cod in a glass or ceramic dish for 24 hours in a large amount of water, changing the water every four hours or so

2.      Remove the salt cod from the water.  If it is not already cut up, cut it into large chunks.  Simmer in the milk for 15 minutes.

3.      Discard the milk and rinse the salt cod under cold water.  Dry on paper towels for 10 minutes to remove any excess moisture. Remove any bones and skin, then break into smaller chunks and chill.

4.      Melt butter in small sauce pan over medium-low heat.  Sweat the onions and garlic (which means cook without browning) until translucent, about 6 minutes.  Lower the heat if necessary to avoid browning.  Move to a bowl and chill.

5.      Cut the potatoes into sixths and simmer in water until they are tender.  Drain and allow to dry for 3 minutes.  (An oven on very low heat works great for drying boiled potatoes.)

6.      Thoroughly mash your potatoes, or send them through a food mill or ricer.  Combine them with your salt cod.  There should still be small flakes of cod visible in your potatoes.

7.      Add the egg, Worcestershire, Tabasco, Old Bay, parsley, mustard, onions and garlic, salt and pepper.  Check seasoning and chill for about 15 minutes before using.

8.      Portion the cod cakes into 2½ oz portions each.  Bread lightly in the dried breadcrumbs and then wrap a piece of bacon around the outside of the cod cake.  Secure the bacon with a toothpick and chill until ready to pan-fry.  Preheat your oven to 350°F/175°C.

9.      Heat about a cup of oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat.  Pan-fry cod cakes in batches, flipping half-way through, until golden brown on each side.  Avoid over-crowding your pan so you don’t steam your cod cakes.

10.  Finish the cod cakes in the oven on a baking sheet until they reach an internal temperature of 145°F/62°C, which is enough to fully cook the eggs. Serve hot with remoulade sauce and desired side dishes.

 

RemouladeSauce:

·        ½ to ¾ C mayonnaise, depending on your preference

·        ½ oz (about 1 ½ Tbsp) capers, chopped

·        ½ oz (about 1 ½ Tbsp) cornichons (or other dill pickle), chopped

·        ½ Tbsp fresh chives, chopped (plus more for garnish, if desired)

·        ½ Tbsp fresh chervil or tarragon (or a combination), chopped (substitute with fresh herb of your choice if you can’t find these; do not use dried herbs)

·        1 tsp Dijon mustard

·        ¼ tsp Anchovy paste (you can omit this if you like, but it adds a wonderful flavor and does not taste fishy; anchovy filets are easy to find here in Mexico and you can just chop and turn them into a paste yourself, or order the paste online)

·        Kosher Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

·        Worcestershire and Tabasco sauces, to taste
 

1.      Combine all ingredients and mix well.

2.      Refrigerate and adjust seasoning just before serving, if necessary.

Coleslaw:

·        2½ fl oz (about ¼ C) sour cream

·        2½ fl oz (about ¼ C) mayonnaise

·        1 fl oz (2 Tbsp) cider vinegar

·        ½ Tbsp dry mustard

·        ¾ oz (about 5 tsp) sugar

·        1 tsp prepared horseradish

·        ½ tsp celery seed

·        ½ tsp Tabasco sauce

·        Kosher Salt and freshly ground black pepper, as needed

·        ¾ lb green cabbage, cored and sliced thinly

·        2½ oz (about ¾ C) carrots, grated
 

1.      Mix first eight ingredients together in a large bowl until smooth.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.

2.      Add cabbage and carrots to the dressing and toss until evenly coated.  Refrigerate until serving.

Homemade Old Bay Seasoning
(Adapted from www.food.com)

Yields 1Cup

·        2 tsp celery seed

·        4 Tbsp black peppercorns

·        16 dried bay leaves

·        4 tsp cardamom seed

·        4 tsp mustard seeds

·        2 tsp whole cloves

·        4 tsp paprika (or you can use Spanish pimentón; I wouldrecommend the “picante” variety)

·        1 tsp mace or 1 tsp nutmeg

·        4 tsp kosher salt
 

1.      Mix all ingredients together. Grind using mortar and pestle or a spice grinder.

2.      Store in an airtight container.

Bacalao a la Vizcaína
From www.mexconnect.com

 

Serves 6

·        2 lbs (about 1 kg) salt cod (bacalao)

·        Water (as needed)

·        6 C milk

·        1½ C extra virgin olive oil

·        1 head garlic, cloves separated and peeled

·        1½ large onion, peeled and finely chopped

·        1½ pounds tomatoes, canned or fresh, roasted in the oven or on a dry griddle/comal

·        ½ bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

·        ½ lb (about .25 kg) small, new potatoes (yellow or red), boiled and peeled

·        ¾ C pimiento stuffed olives (preferably Spanish)

·        about ¼ C pickled jalapeño or güero chiles, depending on your preference
 

1.      Rinse the salt cod in several changes of water.  Soak the salt cod in a glass or ceramic dish for 24 hours in a large amount of water, changing the water every four hours or so.

2.      Remove the salt cod from the water and squeeze out extra water.  Soak in milk for another two hours. Squeeze out excess milk and remove the bones and skin from the fish.  Shred it finely and set aside.

3.      Heat the olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-low heat.  Add onions and cook until they soften and begin to turn golden. Add half of the garlic cloves and continue to cook until they begin to get soft.

4.      Puree the roasted tomatoes and the remaining garlic in a blender or food processor.  Strain through a large-mesh sieve and add to the pot. Cover and cook over low heat until a thick sauce forms and all juice from the tomatoes has evaporated.  This should take at least an hour.

5.     Add the shredded fish, parsley, potatoes, olives and chiles with some pickling juice to taste and simmer another 30 minutes.  Add salt if desired.  Allow dish to stand before reheating and serving; can be made a day ahead and refrigerated before reheating slowly, if desired.

Heart-Warming Fall Recipe: Beef Short Ribs

As a follow-up to my post last week on Beef in Mexico (and as I research pork in Mexico and prepare for next week), I thought I’d give you guys a restaurant-quality beef recipe that is perfect for fall and the (slightly) cooler weather we’re having.  

When most people think of fall dishes, they think of braising.  One of my absolute favorite things to braise are beef short ribs.  Many people love ordering short ribs at restaurants...delving into the deliciously tender, flavorful beef and feeling totally pampered, but wouldn’t even know where to start to make them at home, let alone what to buy at the grocery store.  It is really rewarding to make them at home, though, so here are all your answers on how to do that!



Beef Short Ribs
served over Polenta with Roasted Root Vegetables
Photo by Dan Castro

Many people get very confused between the different kinds of ribs that are available.  Primarily in the U.S., we purchase and consume pork ribs, such as baby back ribs or spare ribs.  Beef ribs are available in both the U.S. and Mexico (labeled “costillas” in Mexico), but they are generally cut into rib-eye steaks and cowboy steaks (labeled “ribeye” and “cowboy” in Mexico as well).  Short ribs (labeled “agujas largas” or “agujas cortas” in Mexico, based on how they are cut) are a unique treat we get from the cow.  They are taken from the 6^th through 10^th ribs and are basically the very front (or chest) portion of the ribs, where there is less meat.  (The larger, “rounded” portion of the ribs contains the ribeye meat.)  Additionally, the meat from short ribs is extremely tough, which is why it is necessary to braise them.  (See the “Back to Basics: Braising” post on my blog for more basic info!)  Once you cook them low and slow, though, you have a wonderfully delicious meal.  I must warn you, though, this is not a “30-minute recipe” so it’s best to make it on a weekend or a day you have some time to devote to it, but it is well worth the effort!  Enjoy!  

Braised Short Ribs

Serves 4

Espagnole Sauce (Braising Sauce) Ingredients:

·         2 oz (½ stick) butter

·         3 oz (about ¾ C) flour

·         1/2 Cup vegetable oil

·         2-3 lbs/1-1.5 Kg beef bones, if available (can cut these bones out of bone-in short ribs or buy separately)

·         10 oz small dice mirepoix (5oz/1C onions, 2.5oz/½C carrots, 2.5oz/¾ C celery)

·         2 oz/4 Tbsp.  tomato paste

·         2.5 qts/2.4 L beef stock (or can combine 1 1/4 qt beef stock and 1 1/4 qt water if using bones)

·         Sachet (Crushed garlic, bay leaf, peppercorns, parsley stems, and thyme sprigs—can just put directly into sauce since it will be strained later)

1.       Melt butter in large skillet over low heat.  Add flour and mix.  Cook slowly over medium-low or in oven at about 350 degrees Fahrenheit, pulling out to stir often. Cook until roux is a nice mahogany brown with a nutty, but not burned, aroma.  Let cool.

2.       If using bones to add flavor to your sauce, preheat oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit.  Heat oil in roasting pan in oven.  Once hot, add beef bones and roast in oven until nice and brown.  Remove bones from pan and set aside.  On top of stove, place onions in pan and scrape up fond (tasty brown bits left behind from the bones).  Transfer onions and fond to large pot with wide opening (rondeau or a dutch oven, NOT a stock pot).  Add more oil to pot if necessary and heat over medium high heat.  Add onions, carrots and celery. 

If NOT using bones to add flavor, simply heat about 3 Tbsp of vegetable oil in a large pot with a wide opening (rondeau or a dutch oven, NOT a stock pot).  Add onions, carrots and celery to pot.

3.       Cook mirepoix until golden brown, stirring often with a wooden spoon and scraping up fond as you go.  Add tomato paste and stir occasionally until slightly brown and sweet smelling.  Don’t rush the steps in this phase.

4.       If using bones, return browned bones to pot with mirepoix and tomato paste.  Add beef stock/water and simmer to extract flavor from bones, skimming fat off the top as necessary, for 30-45 minutes.  Remove bones and discard.

If not using bones, just add beef stock to caramelized mirepoix and bring to a simmer.

5.       In a separate bowl or in the pot you made your roux in, add some of the hot stock to your roux and whisk to combine until smooth.  Add tempered roux into large pot with stock and mirepoix and whisk smooth.  Add sachet ingredients and simmer gently for 45 minutes to 1 hour, skimming the surface as necessary.  Strain sauce through a fine mesh strainer into a large bowl or pot and reserve for braising short ribs.

Short Ribs:

·         5-6 lbs/2¼-2¾ kg beef short ribs (both “Agujas Cortas” and “Agujas Largas” will work, but I prefer “Agujas Cortas”, available in all grocery stores.  If you don’t see them, just ask the butcher.)

·         kosher salt (available in some grocery stores but also on Amazon.com)

·         freshly ground black pepper

·         vegetable oil, ~2 Tbsp per batch of short ribs

·         2 lb small dice mirepoix (1 lb/3½C onions, ½ lb/1½C carrots, ½ lb/2C celery)

·         1 Cup tomato paste

·         2 ½ Cups red wine

·         8 Cups espagnole sauce (see recipe above)

·         beef stock, enough to fill pot to 2/3 up short ribs (about 2-4 Cups)

·         4 bay leaves

·         4-6 thyme sprigs

1.       Preheat oven to 275 degrees Fahrenheit.  Season short ribs with salt and pepper. 

2.       Heat 2 Tbsp of oil at a time over medium high heat in a dutch oven until it shimmers.  Place one batch of seasoned ribs carefully in the oil and sear until deep brown on all sides.  Be careful not to overcrowd pan in order to allow nice caramelization and to avoid steaming.  Remove browned ribs, placing in large bowl or plate, and repeat with remaining ribs in batches, adding oil as necessary between batches.

3.       Once all ribs are browned and set aside, add mirepoix to the dutch oven and cook until golden brown, stirring often with a wooden spoon and scraping up fond as you go.  Add tomato paste and stir occasionally until slightly brown and sweet smelling.  Don’t rush the steps in this phase.

4.       Add wine and deglaze pot with wooden spoon.  Simmer until reduced by half.  Return the ribs to the pan with any accumulated juices.  Add the espagnole sauce and stock until covered by 2/3.

5.       Bring to a simmer over medium low heat.  Cover and transfer to oven.  After about 5 minutes, ensure the short ribs are still simmering.  If not, increase the heat to 300 degrees Fahrenheit and check again in 5 minutes.  Braise, simmering, for 1 hour.  Add bay leaves and thyme; degrease using a ladle or large spoon.  Finish braising until fork-tender, about 1 to 1½ hour more.  You will know your short ribs are done with they are fork tender, meaning easily broken apart with a fork.  Degrease again before serving.

Serve short ribs over polenta or mashed potatoes and roasted root vegetables or any green vegetable such as broccoli, broccoli rabe, asparagus, green beans, etc.  If you have braising sauce remaining, freeze it and you can use it the next time you make short ribs without having to make the espagnole sauce.  Just brown your short ribs, and use your defrosted sauce and more beef stock to cover your ribs by 2/3.

The Menu

Photo by Johnny Autry, www.cookinglight.com

Greek Lamb Meatballs
Assorted Relish Platter
~
Green Salad with Pomegranate-Cumin Vinaigrette
Spiced Lentils with Poached Eggs
Roasted Carrots
~
Carrot Cakes with Candied Carrots and Pistachios
Vanilla Ice Cream
Local Mexican Coffee

I am not one to toot my own horn. But last night...this menu...was awesome. We hosted the Iraqi Chargé d'affaires (acting Ambassador) to Mexico and other friends, and I have to say (with some help that was key), I pulled it off, and the guests really enjoyed it. I have none of my own pictures because I was in the moment. Let me know if you try it.

"Make-Ahead" Tips for your dinner party:

• I mixed and formed meatballs well in advance and kept them in the fridge, then baked them instead of frying.  Throwing them in a 400 degree oven for 15 min (with 2 more min under the broiler for crispness) before guests arrived was much easier than messy frying.
• Make the vinaigrette first before anything else, leaving out the mint. Prep your mint, wrap in a wet paper towel and store in a baggy in the fridge with the dressing so it's ready to add at the last minute.
• Lentils can be made in advance and reheated. I made a double batch so I used a Dutch oven for the onions/tomatoes/spices, added cooked lentils, then reheated them in the same pot over low heat with just a little added chicken stock (or you could use veg stock).
• Eggs can be pre-poached too! Poach them in vinegar water for just two minutes (a little longer if whites aren't quite set), then move directly to an ice bath. Store in the fridge until dinner time. Reheat in nearly-simmering, salty water for just one minute before serving. They come out perfect.
• Cut and seasoned carrots with olive oil, salt and pepper early on so they were ready to toss in a 450 degree oven 20 min before dinner time.
• Made the carrot cakes the night before. Prepped carrot strips early in the day and stored in the fridge...the syrup and candied carrots were easy to pull off during hors d'oeuvres (not a lot of active cooking required) or just before guests arrive.

Good luck!